Monday, July 23, 2012

VALENTINO HAUTE COUTURE AUTUMN WINTER 2012

KEE@FSWMAG.COM


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HAUTE COUTURE FALL/WINTER 2012 COLLECTION

The narration is introspective: here, reality is a product of the imagination. Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli have envisioned a nocturnal, reflective mood for the Fall/Winter 2012-13 Haute Couture collection of Valentino. Luxury has been transformed into a splendid story. Blue defines the mental landscape: profound and dense – a synonym of possibility and creative thought – it is the polar opposite of vibrant red and far from impenetrable black. The concept of beauty as a maximum expression of humanity pervades the clothes. Convinced that the evolution of the Maison must come from within, Maria
Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli have created a collection that uses the most classic materials, techniques and iconography yet is farthest from typical canons of style. The spirit of time enters the atelier and is condensed into an effortless, essential line. Lightness and density, dazzling splendor and subtle
embellishment create a contrast in which opposites blend.

Imagination molds the material. Shapes seem to magically form around the body, almost as if the material is naturally following; like an imaginary design which has never been touched before by scissors. Silhouettes are the quintessence of simplicity. We are immediately drawn in by this subtle and never
ostentatious virtuosity that lets us dream of new paths, different perspectives, and unique stories. The pieces in this collection are a part of a composite, a multiform concept: impalpable dresses and dramatic ball gowns, detailed capes and sleek dresses, slim-fit trousers and adamantine blouses. The line creates movement, and longer silhouettes elongate the figure. The chiffon intarsia dress is a liquid cascade that solidifies for an instant around the waist and then continues to flow down. The tuxedo dissolves into an endless cape worn with a skirt. The stylistic approach includes contrasts. Short dresses in brocade – the epitome of grace – make a bold statement with their architectural silhouettes. Meanwhile, embroidery creates textured color and explores ancient symbols. As if the result of some magical alchemic process, heavier materials such as brocade, velvet, chiffon, and double cashmere become as light and ephemeral as pure thought. Intense, mysterious midnight blue is combined with black and interrupted with brocade nuances of pink, yellow and red.

The collection celebrates traditional craftsmanship as a form of knowledge and a search for new heights that is never an escape because only the mind, guiding the hand, creates reality.


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